Today I’m sharing a beautiful Venetian dish called melanzane in saor, or aubergines in saor. It’s an elegantly simple recipe that balances sweet and sour flavours with a light, vegetal richness. The key is patience: this dish benefits from time. Make it at least a day ahead—ideally two—to allow the flavours to develop fully. Melanzane in saor is perfect for buffet spreads, picnics, or as a make-ahead side that feels special without being fussy. Like much of Italian cooking, it relies on respect for good ingredients and a careful, unhurried approach.
Visiting Venice.
On a recent trip to Venice I discovered how the city’s food culture reflects its identity. Beyond the tourist areas and expensive restaurants, there are small dishes that capture local tradition and flavour. Melanzane in saor is one of those dishes: a straightforward combination of aubergines and onions, lifted by vinegar, sugar, raisins and pine nuts. Venetians are proud of their culinary heritage, and this recipe is a good example of how simple ingredients can transform into something memorable.
The city itself has a history and character that you feel in its kitchens and trattorie. Reading about Venice and the relationship between the city and the sea deepened my appreciation for how local cuisine evolved. But you don’t need a guidebook to understand why melanzane in saor endures: it’s modest, robust and perfectly suited to the rhythms of Venetian life, where preserving and preparing ingredients ahead of time is part of everyday cooking.
Elegant Simplicity.
What makes this dish stand out is how little it uses and how much character it yields. Where I might be tempted to add many herbs and condiments, Venetians achieve depth through careful cooking and restraint. Thinly sliced aubergines are gently browned and layered with sweet, lightly reduced onions, raisins and toasted pine nuts, then finished with a splash of white wine vinegar. The combination is sweet, tangy and textural: soft aubergine, melting onions and little bursts from the fruit and nuts.
Timing matters. The flavours marry and mellow over time, which is why you should refrigerate the assembled dish for at least 24–48 hours before serving. The result is a rounded, harmonious plate that feels like a small, slow-cooked treasure. It’s also versatile: served at room temperature, it complements grilled meats, salads or simply crusty bread.
Kept in Translation.
There are relatively few English-language resources for this recipe, but its sister version—sarde in saor, sardines in the same sauce—is equally traditional. Both are distinctly Venetian, born of a locality that prized preserving and enhancing seafood and vegetables with modest pantry ingredients. Melanzane in saor translates well to vegetarian and vegan diets while retaining a feel of old-world Venetian cuisine. If you can, use the best aubergines, good olive oil and a decent white wine vinegar—these small upgrades make a noticeable difference.
Above all, don’t rush it. This is a dish to prepare thoughtfully: cook the components carefully, assemble them in layers and then let the flavours settle. When you open the fridge after a day or two, the scent and taste will reward the patience you invested.
Enjoy.
Melanzane in Saor
By Gavin Wren
Serves 4 as a side
+ 2 days
Uses a lidded frying pan, griddle and saucepan
Ingredients
50g sultanas or raisins
30g pine nuts
4 white onions, halved and thinly sliced
2 aubergines, sliced lengthways 5mm thick
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
A pinch of pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 bay leaf, finely chopped
Directions
Place the raisins in a bowl and cover with warm water; leave to soak until needed. Lightly toast the pine nuts in a dry pan over medium heat until golden, then set aside.
Heat a frying pan with a lid over medium-low heat and add 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Add the sliced onions, cover, and cook gently for 5–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned. Reduce the heat if they begin to colour.
Meanwhile, heat a separate griddle or frying pan over medium heat. Brush the aubergine slices lightly with oil and cook in batches for a few minutes on each side until softened and nicely browned. Transfer cooked slices to a covered bowl to keep warm.
When the onions are softened, add the salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar. Cook uncovered until most of the liquid has evaporated and the onions are glossy and concentrated.
Drain the soaked raisins and stir them into the onion mixture along with the toasted pine nuts. Remove from the heat.
In your serving dish, layer aubergine slices and the onion mixture, finishing with a layer of onions on top. Sprinkle the chopped bay leaf over the surface, cover, and refrigerate for two days to allow the flavours to meld. Serve at room temperature.